Expectations and Living Up to the Hype

Hype…is it really all that? Is hype a product of a great PR team? Are “people in the know” really that knowledgeable? Who decides what is great, “on trend” and a “must have”? I have never claimed to be an expert on ANYTHING. I know a little bit about a lot of stuff and I know what I like and I will share that info with you. I try to keep this a positive space, because we have all been told, “if you don’t have something nice to say, don’t say anything at all”. But every now and then I just have to dish on stuff that isn’t great.

Was I Disappointed BECAUSE of the Hype?

Recently I went to a few places that were chattered about, recommended to me repeatedly or just had so much hype and press that I had to go and check them out to see if they lived up to the hype. Some did and some were disappointing. I have to wonder if I was disappointed BECAUSE of the hype. If these dishes hadn’t been SO talked about and swooned over, had there not been so much hype over them, would I have felt differently? Or am I right and they just aren’t that great?

Friend, and fellow food lover, Zack and I did some “food crawling” and day drinking while he was here last month and we checked out some places that I hadn’t been to yet and a few tried and true places that I knew he would love. When we got to the Cosmopolitan there was miraculously no line for Egg Slut. Moment of Truth – they have been open here in Vegas for quite a while and because I do not like to wait in line for anything, let alone food, I hadn’t been yet. So we bellied up and ordered the “iconic” Egg Slut. It is whipped potatoes with a coddled egg. You mix it all together and chow down. Yeah…I don’t need to eat that ever again. I found it bland, boring and tasteless. If you want a tastier version, go to Carnevino (Scroll to the bottom of the menu for the dinner side dishes) and get the Mascarpone & Guanciale Mashed Potatoes there. You’ll thank me later. Did I dislike it because I had Carnevino’s version first? Who knows?! All I know is that I am glad I never waited in line to eat it. I might go back and try their version of the egg sandWISH* if there is no line though.

The most underwhelming dish so far of 2017. The “iconic” Egg Slut.

In San Diego last weekend, three people in one night told me I HAD to go to Slater’s 50/50 and try the self-named burger. They all told me it was amazing and that there was nothing else like it. So I went to see if it would live up to the hype. Um…I can skip that in the future. It’s a burger that’s half beef and half ground bacon and topped with all the stuff I love – a runny egg, avocado and pepper jack cheese. It sounded like something I would dream up on my own; almost like they plucked it out of my id. My egg was only partially runny and the burger was really salty. If you know me at ALL, if I say it is salty…it’s fucking salty! What I did love about this place was the amazing draft beer menu that was chock full of fab local beers. I also loved the fried bacon mac & cheese balls. This was the best version of fried mac & cheese I have ever had. I felt guilty for wanting them and even guiltier for eating and loving them.

Studded with bacon and literally oozing with cheese, these were the best version I have ever had.

And Now for the Good Stuff!

With Zack, I went to Momofuku and not having heard anything other than “everything is awesome there” we tried the chilled spicy noodle dish on the lunch menu. YES! The noodles were cold; the sausage was hot, both in temp and spiciness. In fact, it is one of the best dishes I have eaten so far this year! I need to get back there and try more stuff!

Before we mixed it up, you can barely tell there are noodles in this dish. Cold noodles, candied cashews and warmed spicy sausage made this a winner!

While eating our way through the Venetian, Zack and I went to Chica to visit with pal Chef Mike Minor. New resto openings always get a lot of hype and this one was no exception. I’d have gone anyway just to visit with Mike, but now I need to go back. Nearly everything he sent our way was fantastic. Of particular note were the corn dishes. Their street corn was dirty, sexy, and over the top. And their twist on mac & cheese was inventive and toothsome and downright delish! And don’t even get me started on the chicken and avocado arepa. Sloppy and so packed with flavor that I need to eat it again.

Imagine the best chicken salad you have ever had, replace at least 1/2 the mayo with smooth guacamole and you’d be on the right track.

If you have read this far, thank you! Last week marked the 6th anniversary of this blog. If you haven’t subscribed, please do – there’s a convenient button for it at the top right of the page. You’ll hear from me on Tuesday evenings only when I post something. Yes, that’s right, just once a week regardless of how many posts I make in a week and NO, I won’t sell or share your email address.

 

*I always write sandWISH.

Meet Nicole Brisson

I first met Nicole Brisson at Jolene Mannina’s Back of the House Brawls (BOH – the basis for the new FYI TV show Late Night Chef Fight). Together with Friend Sue Mancini we made up the only all-female judges’ table ever at the BOH. Nicole Brisson and I have a lot in common. We grew up in small towns in upstate New York. We had rough childhoods. We had a love for the restaurant business from an early age. But unlike me, Nicole did something about it starting in high school.

L - R : Nicole Brisson, Sue Mancini and me April 2013

L – R : Nicole Brisson, Sue Mancini and me
April 2013

Nicole moved out of the family home at 14 with her older sister and made her own way. Growing up in a town of 2000 (Rensselaerville, NY) not known for its culinary scene, with few role models of what a life in culinary could be, Nicole chose to enter a career based high school curriculum in culinary arts while working at a local restaurant. The owners of that restaurant encouraged, nurtured and taught her; and to this day she considers them dear friends, family and mentors. They saw the spark in her and pushed her, basically telling her in word and deed that she was better than her hometown. She was so good in her high school Vo-Tech program that she was given a scholarship to Johnson & Wales. Her exceptional performance in college gave her the opportunity to work in Italy as an apprentice and intern to powerhouse chefs too numerous to mention. She said of that opportunity, “I didn’t know it was a big deal until I got there. I just thought it would be something cool to do. I went there to work and learn and THEN I found out it was a huge deal.”

Now, after 20 years of hard work, Nicole is the Executive Chef of Carnevino, arguably the best steak house on The Strip and a jewel in the Batali & Bastianich Hospitality Group’s crown. The fact that she is currently, to the best of my knowledge, the only female Exec at a top tier restaurant at any major property on the Strip is remarkable. The fact that she is in her mid-thirties is astounding. When asked about this she shrugs and admits that even though the doors of culinary are open for women, it is still a men’s game at times. Socially she is quick with a smile and a laugh, with a sharp wit and sense of humor, so her transformation when working is startling. When you see Nicole in her chef whites she is controlled, calm and some would say shy, others would say stern. She has quietly and steadfastly carved out a niche for herself, not feeling the need to push, shove, scream or rant as others in her position, male and female alike, might have. She shared a story where she was “trying out” for a job and the other women were throwing elbows and trying to act tough as nails. It wasn’t her style and she basically just said, “Shut up and cook.” Nicole has allowed her work to speak for itself. She believes that the pace of the leader sets the pace of the pack and shows that through word and action. If she is calm and controlled, then her staff will be too. If she walks around acting like a coquettish goofball, then her staff will think that is ok…and it’s not. Walking through her kitchen during this interview she stopped and introduced each of her staff members, noting their progress on tasks at hand, showing appreciation for their work by that small gesture. And it was clear that she is admired by her team.

Nicole Brisson is a culinary badass.

In addition to cooking and recipe development, menu creation and running a full back of the house staff, Nicole oversees a dynamic meat program including charcuterie and dry aging and works with the best meat producers in the country to create a one of a kind dining experience (Moment of Truth – I am a charcuterie whore!). She allowed me into the on-premises meat locker at the restaurant and you can smell the beefiness even when it’s raw and cold. If you have never been in a meat locker there is a certain smell that really good meat has. I can’t describe it, but when you smell it, you know it! Having a parent who is a butcher, I marveled at the marbling and overall exceptional beauty of the beef. At an off-site location she handles the receiving and storage of the beef in the dry aging process. In addition, a recent diagnosis of celiac disease has surreptitiously steered her menu development toward gluten free options in all aspects except the pasta dishes. It is so second nature to her she doesn’t even realize she is doing it until a staff member asks, “Is this gluten free?” At that point she has to pause and consider the ingredients, and more likely than not, it is gluten free. Don’t worry though, she isn’t messing with the pastas.

with Mario Batali at Carnevino

with Mario Batali at Carnevino

Batali’s respect for her was evident

Invited to a private event at Carnevino, I was given the opportunity to watch Nicole Brisson at work, not only with her team and the clients, but with Mario Batali. She seamlessly moved from engaging conversationalist to taking charge of the staff. She took time to point out specific dishes to guests at the different stations so everyone knew there were plenty of options to choose from on the tables. Batali’s respect and gratitude for her and her work was evident when I asked him for the photo in this article. He paused from taking photos with fans and guests to make sure I had what I needed to highlight Nicole’s place in his organization. As a complete sidebar – her staff allowed to me run the fancy–schmancy slicer for the prosciutto. I am now convinced that I need one in my kitchen for the jamon de serrano I have in the fridge. Never mind my goofy face, check out the charcuterie!

Charcuterie whore at work - I totally need that slicer!

Charcuterie whore at work – I totally need that slicer!

Seemingly at the top of her game, I asked what was next for her. She didn’t have a ready answer for the question. Ultimately it would be opening her own place and she is confident she would have support, both financially and personally; but she isn’t ready to take that step yet. Nicole loves what she is doing and wants to continue building what she is currently working on right now. The future is bright for Nicole Brisson and I for one can’t wait to see what she does in that future.