Category Archives: Travel

Travel Egypt – Part Two – the Hotel and Bread

Posted on by LeAnne Notabartolo

Usually when you take a cruise, your itinerary begins when you board the ship. Unlike other cruises, this one started and ended at a hotel. Let me explain. We arrived in Cairo, toured there for a couple of days then flew to Luxor to board the ship; sailed for a week and then flew back to Cairo for another couple of days culminating with a trip to Giza and THE pyramids. And I ate ALL. THE. BREAD.

A better than average breakfast

We were lucky enough to stay at the Four Seasons and it is a lovely hotel. Like every Four Seasons in the world. The service is lavish, rooms are spacious and the food…well let’s just say it’s not all great. There is definitely some room for improvement. The breakfast buffet included with our room was above average.

The pastry shop in this hotel knows a thing or two about croissants and all of the bread was delicious (more on that further down the page). They offered American and European staples, along with traditional Egyptian fare, like ful (pronounced fool). Ful is the national dish of Egypt and it is stewed fava beans. The most surprising thing about the breakfast bar was the gorgeous honey display. Several varieties to choose from, plus a local honey that you could scrape right off the comb or break off a piece of the comb to enjoy. Delish!

  • Framed honey comb
    Local honey on the comb.at the breakfast buffet .
  • Honey Display
    A variety of honeys were offered

Dinner however was another story all together. I am not sure what it is about the meat in Egypt, but they cook it to death. It doesn’t matter which meat – beef, lamb, veal – it is all COOKED. The meat dishes at the Four Seasons were cooked within an inch of their life. Almost to the point of being inedible. The fish and chicken were treated beautifully though, and were really tasty.

Great Bread is a THING in Egypt

As in most cultures, bread is a staple in Egypt. And nearly all of it is better than the average bread here in the states. Even the street markets had better bread than we get in the states. The croissants I enjoyed at the Four Seasons were some of the best I have ever had. The little rolls and mini baguettes, served with the cheese and charcuterie on board the ship, were really well executed. Bread making is a THING in Egypt. We saw housewives laying dough in the sun on balconies so it could rise. These were average housewives, not Martha Stewart-y kinds of women with too much time and money on their hands.

It’s not just the big hotels that make their own bread, small Mom & Pop places make their own bread daily as well. We had lunch in Alexandria at a bright fish place filled with tile and large glass windows to see the Mediterranean. They had a gas fired brick oven and turned out their own pita. Yes, it was delicious. While in Aswan, we enjoyed high tea at the historic Cataract Hotel. All of the finger sandwiches were exceptional, even though they had been sitting out waiting for our arrival.

  • pita baked fresh
    A tiled gas fired oven turns out beautifully browned pita.
  • Mezza in Alexandria
    Mezza with lunch including labneh, babaganoush, and fava bean hummus with freshly baked pita
  • simple grilled grouper lunch
    Grilled grouper with browned rice pilaf
  • Historic Cataract Hotel High Tea
    Finger sandwiches at the Cataract Hotel were splendid even though they had been sitting out on the patio waiting for our arrival

I am forever ruined for the pita that we have access to here; those are pale imitations of what a pita can truly be. Walking through the souk you can smell the bread being made and then you round a corner and see it. Imagine one of those toasters you see on a buffet that takes your bread on a little conveyor belt, and spits your toast out of the bottom. Now imagine it as big as the hood of a mid-sized SUV spitting out perfectly puffed pita that are so hot you have to pass it back and forth in your hands like you are playing “hot potato” with yourself. (Yes, I took a pic. No, it didn’t come out well.) Shawarma wrapped in light thin lavash and petite baguettes filled with all manner of things. The fillings were immaterial, the bread was the star of the show for me. Hi, my name is LeAnne and I am a carb-aholic.

fresh pita is everywhere
New pal Sameh holding the pita fresh from the oven in the souk

Can terroir change the flavor of produce?

Sadly, I didn’t have the opportunity to speak with a culinarian or agriculturalist with a really good grasp of the English language to find out why all of the bread was so damn good. All of the staff on board the ship spoke English, but those who spoke it most fluently didn’t have deep culinary or agricultural knowledge. Is the wheat the same variety as we use here in the states? Is it grown differently or milled differently? Is it like grapes, where the terroir can change the flavor and the properties?

I may never know the answer. What I do know is that my husband is looking at a vacation home in Alexandria on the Mediterranean Sea and I am not mad about it. At least I will get to eat the good bread again.

2018 – a Year of Loss and Love

Posted on by LeAnne Notabartolo

2018 sucked. It just sucked. There was a LOT of loss. Loss of loved ones, heroes, icons, and precious items, but no weight, sadly.

There was also a LOT of love in 2018. I attended four weddings in four different parts of the country. The Hubs was the officiant at his very first wedding. My niece had a baby girl making me a Great Aunt three times over. And there were hugs, and tears, and hellos, and goodbyes. Through it all there was food, glorious food. Food to celebrate and food to drown sorrows or heal a broken heart. This my friends, is the list of the best things I ate in 2018. I had to weed out a few things that were awesome, like Maryland crab cakes IN Maryland. Many of these things made the list not just because they tasted great, but because of the memories attached to the enjoyment of or finding of the dish. I hope you enjoy this look back at my 2018 food year in review.

The Top 10 for 2018

Starting off with the locals, here they are…

Esther’s Kitchen

Local Chef James Trees, owner of Esther’s Kitchen, gave me two of my favorite bites of 2018. The Crispy Fried Cauliflower that I shared with The Hubs (he honestly didn’t get much of it) was better than any other version I have ever had. I am not sure if it was the capers or the anchovies or the texture, or the perfect combo of all of those, but I need to get back in there and eat this again!

fried cauliflower

Crispy Fried Cauliflower at Esther’s Kitchen

I thought pal Chef Johnny Church made the best porchetta (he made it for my Surprise 50th Birthday Party), but I was wrong (Sorry Johnny). The Porchetta SandWISH* made the list not only because it was delish, but because I split it with high school buddy Bob Bucci. The Porchetta is also available on the dinner menu as a main, but the pictured dish is only on the lunch menu.

Porchetta

The Best sandWISH I ate all year!

Sparrow + Wolf

On the ever changing menu at Sparrow + Wolf, you never know what you are going to find. Your fave may be taken off the menu to make room for something else that’s fabulous. I did learn from pal, Chef and Owner Brian Howard that they tried to take one of last year’s faves off the menu and there was a near riot. This was one of the nightly specials when I took Sister Nancy to dine there. Her words about this dish were, “I want this for breakfast every day for the rest of my life”. And she’s not wrong. It’s like the best French Toast you’ve ever had topped with the most decadent thing on the planet, and just so you don’t feel guilty, here’s a little fruit.

Foie Gras

Honey Toast with Foie Gras and Blueberries

Carnevino

Carnevino was one of the things we lost this year. It’s final meal service was July 21st and we were happily able to enjoy it with friends Al & Sue Mancini, Eric Gladstone and new friend Jason Harris. I had eaten at Carnevino before, and they have made this list before but I had never had the six month aged beef. Al called ahead and reserved a piece of this amazing beef for us. What a way to go! You can see all of the pics of that meal here.

Dry aged beef

180 day dry aged Prime NY Strip at Carnevino

Two From Vermont

Attending those four weddings in 2018 allowed me to try out some new places. Hen of the Wood in Burlington, Vermont was one of those places. Everything was exceptional and I really should have ordered this dish a second time. Yes, it was that good. Due to a seasonal and ever changing menu, you may not see this dish. Rest assured there will be something fabulous.

Hen of the Wood

Mushroom Toast at Hen of the Wood

The Bierhaus at the Von Trapp Family Lodge in Stowe, Vermont provided me with this perfect burger. The cattle are raised on the property and the beef is for the sole use of the Von Trapp family of restaurants on the property. The flavor is unique to that place as no other cattle can eat exactly what these grass fed cattle can. Think of the properties that terroir gives to wine and it’s kinda the same thing. Not anywhere in the same league as the steak above, but this was THE single best burger I had all year.

Farm raised beef

The best burger I ate all year!

Family Meal, Frederick Maryland

Attending Nephew Jeremy’s wedding took us to Frederick, Maryland and we toured several breweries and ate some fab food. Fried Chicken almost always makes my “best of” list in one form or fashion. For 2018 it was Bryan Voltaggio’s Fried Chicken at Family Meal. It made the list for several reasons:

  1. It was fucking delicious!
  2. We visited Rockwell Brewery and when we asked for a menu they pointed to the boring looking building in the parking lot and told us they could order from there and have it delivered. I declined. Face palm… I didn’t realize it was Bryan Voltaggio’s joint, so I was forced to return.
  3. It was served in a Revol Chicken Dish – one of my absolute favorite pieces from their collection (I have three small ones that were gifted to me). Fried Chicken served on a $60 plate? Yeah, it’s that kind of chicken!
  4. I ordered a side of Pimento Cheese Mac & Cheese and shared it with my two fave guys – The Hubs and The Son.

Family Meal

Bryan Voltaggio’s Fried Chicken

Conference Food

I often travel with The Hubs for his conferences because there are some fun locations. This year we attended three conferences and two locations made this list for 2018.

This rainbow of ciders from Schilling Cider House in Seattle was one of the best drinks of 2018! We went with friends and each of us ordered a flight of 6 and there were very few repeats because the variety was seemingly endless. Barrel aged, multi-fruit, and everything from sweet to ultra dry made the decision making process VERY difficult.

Rainbow of Ciders

A rainbow of Ciders from Schilling in Seattle

Orlando is…well, Orlando. We were at Universal Studios Resort and there was this. And it was so good I had to go back and order it a second time just to make sure that I wasn’t wrong. The first time I ate it I was so hungry that I thought maybe it was just mediocre. It was equally delicious the second time around. At Toothsome Chocolate Emporium, a kitschy themed restaurant in the tourist area, you can get these tater tot nachos – “totchos” – and they were loaded with toppings and flavor. I have to find a way to recreate them here because…damn.

Tater tot Nachos?

Totchos with green chile, queso and fried pork belly

And finally…from my kitchen

I love to cook and I hate to waste food, but sometimes “leftovers” aren’t what I want. I made this one day with freshly poached eggs and everything else was a leftover from something else. Jamon de Serrano crisped up in the pan with parmigiana reggiano and asparagus made for a great way to clear out the fridge and fill up my belly. Perfect leftovers? Perhaps. A little Hollandaise wouldn’t have sucked on this dish.

poached eggs

The one dish from my kitchen that made the list

I hope you have enjoyed this look back at 2018. I am ready to put all of that behind me and move on to creating and enjoying more food memories with my nearest and dearest. Wishing you all a tasty 2019.

*In case you are new here – I always write sandWISH instead of the correct word.

Support Local – Burlington, Vermont – Part 2

Posted on by LeAnne Notabartolo

Can you think of anything more picturesque than Vermont in the snow? Me neither! Here is part 2 of the Vermont trip…many months later. Eating and drinking in local joints made this a fun, if chilly, spot.

On our recent trip to New England this past fall, we tried to hit up not only nationally known brands, but we supported small business, and shopped and ate local as much as possible. Here are my picks for what to do in Burlington. Supporting local in Burlington is frankly fairly easy since there are no big box stores. No massive malls, no W-Mart, Target or other discount retailers. I did not see a single chain restaurant while I was there, how refreshing! You naturally turn toward the businesses owned by the local peeps.

When in Burlington, make your way to Handy’s Lunch

I love to eat breakfast and I dare say that I’d almost rather eat breakfast and lunch out than dinner in many cases. For dinner I can make do with an app and some cocktails, but a great breakfast? Now we are talking! When in Burlington, make your way to Handy’s Lunch. They’ve been around since 1945 and it’s just awesome! It’s not fancy, but everything we had was cooked perfectly and as Yankee fans, we were welcomed with open arms (LITERALLY) by Earl Handy, the son of the founders. Family owned and operated from the start, this lunch counter is a “must do” while there.

Even more entertaining than the local chatter you’ll hear at the counter are the names of the breakfast sandwiches…yes, Chuck Norris is a featured gem. Be sure to ask for the picture menu. The Chuck Norris is fucking huge! John’s “Blackbelt” is below and the Chuck Norris is even bigger! We had such a good time on our first visit, we made time for a second breakfast at Handy’s.

The Blackbelt at Handy's Lunch in Burlington

The Blackbelt is almost like a “club sandWISH” of breakfast ingredients.

In an effort to sample as much as we could, we hit up the Gryphon Gastropub.  I loved the old school feel of the room. We like to sit at the bar and this bar offers the full menu. Knowledgeable servers and good food made this a fantastic little stop. My fave dish there, the seafood grits, is available as a main AND a starter, so in case you aren’t really hungry, you can still enjoy this.

The Gryphon in Burlington serves up delicious upscale bar food.

That lobster butter and some secret voodoo magic made these grits a must have! They were truly unlike any I have ever had.

In an Easily Walkable City, do a Local Beer Hike

Because Burlington is an easily walkable city, we did a Beer Hike through town to hit up as many of the local breweries as possible. One of the differences we noticed between these New England breweries in Burlington, and those on the west coast is that they were really JUST breweries – not brew pubs. There wasn’t a ton of food to be had in any of these local spots to either give a “base” for a night of drinking, or to sop up all the great beer we were enjoying. A pretzel here, a hot dog there, some cheese curds along the way, but few signature items or fancy assed menus. The beer was stellar and there was fabulous variety throughout the city.

Each local brewery has its own style that they are known for and they all support one another. BeerTenders in each brewery were happy to point us to their favorite along the map. Of course, we hit up the local distillery as well. Each tasting room was unique with its own flavor. One was showing B Grade SciFi flicks on the wall with a DJ the night we were there. My fave was Queen City with its vintage reclaimed bar. The story goes that the bar top was from an old “club” where local wheeling and dealing went on.

Just some of the fantastic offerings in Burlington's brewery scene.

Just a view of some of the amazing brewery and distillery selections we enjoyed. The variety in Burlington is astounding considering how small the city is.

Did Someone Say Chocolate?

When in Burlington, down near the “brewery walk” be sure to stop in at Lake Champlain Chocolate company too. Lovely flavors and they have a “seconds” bin where they aren’t perfect in appearance, but the taste is perfect. Discounts on the “seconds” get you more bang for your buck and you can try more flavors.

Locally made chocolates make "supporting local" an easy choice!

This is the haul from Lake Champlain Chocolates. The individually wrapped pieces were from the “seconds” bin and the boxes are caramels.

It’s not a Soft Serve. It’s a Creamee!

Finally, on our way back to the hotel, the Hubs wanted ice cream, so we stopped in for a “Creamee” (aka soft serve) at Burlington Bay Market & Café where I had a delightful black raspberry cone and I enjoyed it while walking along Lake Champlain’s shores.The locals call it a Creamee

As mentioned in my previous post – Vermont is SO much more than meets the eye. I recommend the fall for the leaf peeping. If you are trying to beat the heat, visit in the summer; Lake Champlain has great water sports available. If you are into winter sports, you can’t go wrong with Vermont in the winter.

Vermont Part 1 – Stowe – More Than Meets the Eye

Posted on by LeAnne Notabartolo

When traveling, I always try to think about what you readers would want to see and learn about, so I will frequently include a travelogue for you as a jumping off point for your own travels. On a recent trip to the northeast for a wedding, we made sure to take in as much of the local area as possible and Stowe, VT was one of our stops.

The Alchemist – Stowe

When The Hubs realized that Stowe was just a short drive from Burlington where we flew into, he became downright giddy. He would actually have the opportunity to visit, and purchase from, a somewhat mythical brewery for those of us on the west coast – The Alchemist. If you live anywhere other than Vermont, and you are not a beer geek, you have probably NOT heard of them. Their beer is NOT available outside that area. If you get the chance to try one, you absolutely MUST. They specialize in unfiltered IPAs, but also do a bang up job on other styles as well. Because the beer is unfiltered means you have to keep it cold to preserve flavor, and several of their beers have a note to the drinker on the can that says “Drink From the Can”. And it is true! The best flavor can be achieved by drinking my favorite, Heady Topper, from the can. Yes, I know it sounds counterintuitive, but it’s true. Check out the pic below.

Each day at the brewery in Stowe, there is a list of what is available and how many 4 packs (16 oz cans) you can purchase of each beer. We bought the entire allotment for John, plus my allotment of Heady Topper. We had to buy collapsible coolers and ice to transport it to the wedding where we shared half of our stash at the rehearsal dinner. We “smuggled” the other half in our checked bags and our son’s checked bag to come back to Vegas. Pro Tip – did you know you can pack as much beer in your checked bag as you can clothes? Yes, that’s right. You can put 50 lbs of canned beer in your checked bag.

Other than great tasting beer, the brewery in Stowe is really cool! They have great merch and the artwork throughout is flat out fucking amazing. Because we have so much cool “beerware” we have to pick and choose what souvenirs we pick up and I selected one of the hoodies with the badass Heady Topper logo.

The artwork throughout the brewery was amazing! The fermenting tanks are recreations of the cans and you can see the directive to “Drink From the Can” written across the top.

I was drawn to all of the imagery, colors and graphics at The Alchemist.

Von Trapp Family Lodge

From there we went to the Von Trapp Family Lodge that is just outside of Stowe. Well, we didn’t actually make it to the lodge. We stopped in at the Brewery & Bierhall instead. Being a fan of The Sound of Music and all things Julie Andrews, I wish we had taken a few more minutes and gone up to the actual Lodge, but I am thrilled we stopped at the brewery. Of course there was beer…and pretzels, and the best burger I have eaten all year. The cattle are raised on the property and the meat is for exclusive use of the Von Trapp Family Properties. Truly “farm to table” in every sense of the word.

You simply cannot have a beer without a pretzel – it’s kinda one of the Hubs’ rules.

This is a SERIOUSLY good burger! The beef is raised on property and is solely for the use of the Von Trapp property.

Ben & Jerry’s

On our drive to The Alchemist we passed the original Ben & Jerry’s in Waterbury. Yes, the headquarters, and stopped there on our way back to Burlington. My sole reason for going was to see the Flavor Graveyard. Yes, really. In 1999 Ben & Jerry’s retired my all-time favorite flavor and I knew there was an actual graveyard, complete with headstones, to memorialize retired flavors. Three of my faves are in there – Rainforest Crunch, Dastardly Mash and Wavy Gravy. It would please me to no end if they did a limited release on any or all of those…just for me. I did however have a delish scoop of a salted Bourbon Caramel ice cream…I was there anyway. And of course I picked up some new “spoon” merch including a tasting spoon engraved with “I Like to Spoon”.

My whole reason for wanting to visit the Ben & Jerry’s HQ – I had to pay my respects!

My forever fave. This was on regular rotation while I was pregnant. Sadly I can only dream of it now…unless I try to recreate it!

I love this little tasting spoon! You can find more of the crafter’s designs at worxmetal.com

Of course there is so much more to see in Stowe, and RIGHT NOW is the time to go! The leaves are changing and the hills are a riot of fall color. Sadly we didn’t have the chance or opportunity to visit a “sugar house” where they make the maple syrup, but that’s the plan for the next trip to that neck of the woods.

Hen of the Wood – Burlington, VT – First Spoonful

Posted on by LeAnne Notabartolo

I had heard a LOT about Hen of the Wood, and all of it was good. So, of course when we were on the east coast for a wedding, and staying in Burlington, we had to check it out. The Burlington location is the second with the first being in Waterbury, not too far from the Ben & Jerry’s HQ (which we also visited – more on that in the next post).

First off, let me tell you I am glad we stopped in while walking around town and made a reservation because the place was packed from the time we arrived until the time we left. Always a good sign! And making the reservation was more difficult than I had anticipated. The time and date we wanted weren’t available and we had to go a different night at a much later than usual dining hour for the Hubs, but it was so worth it.

Hen of the Wood  IS a “Daily Special”

Secondly, don’t get your heart set on ANYTHING that you see on posted menus, or in this write up, and don’t ask for the daily specials – everything on the Hen of the Wood menu is a “daily special”. The menu changes each day based on what is fresh, local and available that day. They source as much locally as possible and work with what’s available. On the bottom of the menu there is a note about which farms provided the produce. Of course we looked at the menu online and made some preliminary selections and when we got there, none of the items we wanted to try were available. It was a happy accident that allowed us to try things that weren’t on our radar. The only thing that was the same were the Parker House rolls that we devoured! They were light, fluffy and topped with just a bare sprinkling of salt served with a savory compound butter. And I wish I had asked to take the dated, printed menu of the day.

Thirdly, while it was just the two of us, after a quick trip the ladies’ room, I wished we had a crowd with us. I suggest you go with a group of 6 or 8 and make a reservation well in advance for the “Chef’s Table” by the kitchen. It is literally IN the kitchen at Hen of the Wood. That is how I like to eat; watching and seeing everything that is going on. And do be sure to check out the funky cool artwork (the WuTang Clan print was my fave) and the meat aging locker on your way to the restrooms.

I Voluntarily Ordered a Vegetarian Dish

Now let’s talk about the food. For the first time in my memory, I voluntarily ordered a vegetarian dish and I was THRILLED that I did! Of all of the dishes we ordered, there was only one misstep, and it was more a preference than a poorly executed dish.

We started with the Mushroom Toast. On the menu it didn’t sound like anything special, but the table next to us had it delivered and it looked so good that we ordered it as well. Thick cut, freshly grilled bread topped with beautiful seasonal mushrooms, bitter greens, pork belly and a gorgeous, perfectly poached egg. It was simply stunning and absolutely delicious, and I was left wanting more of them. I will be creating my own riff on this at home in the future.

Mushroom Toast with Parker House rolls in the background

Then we moved on to the Beef Tartare with caraway crackers – this was the only dish we were not in love with. It was almost like a kitschy play on words between tartare and tartar. Tartare is one of my most favorite dishes to enjoy anywhere, and this one disappointed. There was a dill and mayo dressing along with nicely diced, crunchy vegetables mixed into the diced beef. It was beautifully executed, just not to our taste. Surprisingly, even though I despise caraway, I didn’t hate the crackers. They were crunchy, house made crackers with just a hint of caraway, not the overwhelming flavor I usually find with that seed.

Beef Tartare

Next up was the Halibut with Fresh Corn. Again, a simple and beautifully plated dish of pan roasted halibut on a bed of fresh corn and a dollop of a zippy little green relish (not pickles…and this is why I wish I had asked for the menu, because I can’t remember everything). The crust on the halibut was crispy, the meat moist and flavorful, and the corn…holy hell was it was fresh and good. This is the kind of dish where Hen of the Wood really excels and highlights the freshest of flavors. The relish added just the right amount of acid to cut through the richness of the fish. Each component was perfect on its own, but when combined into the “perfect bite”, the way chefs intend, it was a masterpiece.

Halibut with Corn

By far, my favorite dish of the night was the vegetarian dish that I selected! I am as surprised as you are…trust me! Broccolini with Farrow and Whipped Ricotta. The ricotta is, of course, made in house and served as the perfect sweet foil to the bitterness of the broccolini. And the sprinkling of pepitas lent the perfect additional crunch to the dish. Farrow is one of my favorite grains to play with, partly because of the texture, and this also will be riffed on in my kitchen.

Broccolini with Farrow & Ricotta

We skipped dessert because the Hubs wanted soft serve, excuse me – a creamee – from the local stand down the street (more on that in my next post too). But we did consider a cheese plate since there were so many fabulous offerings on the daily sheet.

On the whole, if you are planning a trip to Burlington – call ahead and reserve a spot at Hen of the Wood. You won’t be disappointed.

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Bucket List and Firsts

Posted on by LeAnne Notabartolo

I began writing this piece before my last post about Anthony Bourdain and his death. Since then I have been trying to find ways to verbally express my joy and it has escaped me. When I tell you in person about this trip, you can see the fun in my face, but writing my joy has been a challenge. I do hope you enjoy this, because it was a great day!

Life got Thrown at Me…HARD

Sorry I have been incommunicado for ages, but life got thrown at me…HARD. It’s been several months of traveling and events and FIRSTS. Of course I have been sharing the delish things I have been eating, and if you missed any of those, you can follow along on Instagram or Facebook to see what I am posting when I am not writing.

I’ve been to festivals, been a judge for the culinary portion of Motley Brews Great Vegas Festival of Beer, attended a birthday celebration with an absentee honoree, attended three weddings, had my house painted and pool resurfaced, had high school friends visit, went to Seattle, and so much more. With all of THAT going on, you’d think I had stuff to write about, and I do, but couldn’t make/find the time, or find my joy in writing.

Photo by Michelle Grace Photography
Dancing at my nephew’s wedding with the Hubs.

 

I Suggest You Start a Bucket List

If you haven’t started one for yourself, I suggest you start a “bucket list”. Like the movie, but without Nicholson’s character’s bank account, I started my bucket list a few years ago, and I add to it and scratch stuff off as I experience or do an activity. My bucket list is nearly 50 items long and I figure the bucket list will grow as I find new things I want to experience. Some are off the charts crazy. Like “have my picture taken by Annie Leibovitz”. Others are pretty down to earth, like “drive the length of Route 66”.

The one I was able to scratch off the bucket list this week was “deep sea fishing” thanks to my BIL Walter. I have never enjoyed lake or stream fishing because you are supposed to be quiet and not scare the fish. If you know me at all, you know I have trouble keeping quiet, so those activities are not for me. However, with deep sea fishing of the trawling type that we did, the motor makes so much noise that my talking isn’t an issue. Basically, you cast the line off the back of the boat, and then motor the boat thru the water. The lure and bait jump about in the wake of the boat to catch the attention of the prey. In our case, the prey was dolphin fish (aka Mahi Mahi or Dorado depending on where you are located). When the fish bite, the line starts to spool out FAST and that’s when the excitement begins.

Friend Steve helpfully skinned, cleaned and filleted the catch faster than I could have ever done, and that night we enjoyed fresh Mahi ceviche and grilled fish tacos with all the classic accompaniments.  And of course there are no pics of that either.

A few things to note here:

  • I was so excited, and there was such an adrenaline rush when pulling the fish in that I took NO pics or video of Walter’s efforts. I was truly living in the moment and only thought of the potential for great copy for the blog AFTER the fact. Sometimes living in the moment is the way to go.
  • I spotted the lines spooling out (which meant there was a fish on the end) and Walter did all of the reeling in. And a good thing too! The second fish we caught was over 25lbs and jumped a full 3 feet out of the water at one point. Walter had to get down on one knee and lean way back to get that fish on the deck. Had I tried to do it, that fish would have pulled me into the water.
  • Never before in my life had I experienced sea sickness on a small boat – cruise ships yes, but never on a small boat. That has changed. As soon as the boat stopped moving so we could reel in the fish, my stomach did not cooperate. There were 3 episodes and I powered through them like a champ, chumming the water and begging to keep going. Yes…really. After the third round, Walter called the fight and we went back to shore.
  • I had such a good time that I can’t wait to go back and do it again with Walter! But this time I am taking my seasickness meds!

Lately I have spent a LOT of time living in the moment. Putting my phone down, not posting and sharing and just LIVING my life. I attended the sold out Vegas Unstripped event and I didn’t take a single picture. I went to Hopped Taco and the only pics I took show up on my Instagram account. When  my friends were here, I took virtually no pics of our time together. I know it is self defeating, but I am trying to truly live in the moment.

Take a Beer Vacation – Almost Anywhere

Posted on by LeAnne Notabartolo

I am not saying you should take a vacation FROM beer. I am saying that you should turn your vacation into a Beer Vacation. With the growth of the craft beer scene all across the country, this is much easier than it sounds. Living with a home brewer, as I do, the task takes on even greater ease! He is willing to do all of the research into finding local breweries and craft beer bars in any area we travel! Consequently, each vacation lately has become a beer vacation for at least one of the days we are traveling. Sometimes we take a guided tour of the brew house; sometimes we just enjoy a flight of whatever happens to be on tap.

Beer Vacation – Hitting Up as Many Breweries as Possible

Vibrant craft beer scenes in the Pacific Northwest are a great place to start. We have made Seattle and Bend, Oregon into craft beer vacations, hitting up as many breweries as possible. (For Bend, go to the “Visit Bend” site and get all the info you need to take a great beer hike around town.) Another great option is the San Diego area. There are dozens of microbreweries there and a few really big ones too – like Stone, Green Flash and Lost Abbey off the top of my head.

Northern California is a Treasure Trove

Last year, attending the wedding of a friend, I had the good fortune to take some of my gal pals on a tour of Sierra Nevada in Chico. None of them had ever done a full blown brewery tour and they will forever be ruined for all others! I have been on dozens of tours, and this one is the BEST I’ve ever taken. The building is Lied Certified and they do all sorts of next level shit in there to help the local community, environment and the craft brew scene. All of Northern California is a treasure trove of amazing taprooms and breweries. The San Francisco area boasts a Rogue taproom, 21st Amendment Brewing and  Speakeasy brewing just to get you started.

On our most recent trip (you can read about it in four installments here on the site) we had the great good fortune of making beer vacation days out of Bamberg, Vienna and Frankfurt. But the biggest happy accident of the trip was finding a small local brewery in Amsterdam. After chatting with the barmaid at VOC Café where we enjoyed bitterballen, we asked about a nearby brewery, Brouwerij De Prael. She warned us that it was small, but we weren’t deterred. Size doesn’t always matter. Great beer does! It was close by so we trekked on over to check it out. We weren’t disappointed!

A Rabbit Warren of Small Rooms

After walking down a cobblestone alley where no car could have driven, we walked into a wild scene of “bingo night” where the grand prize was a scooter. Brouwerij De Prael was packed to the rafters with loud contemporary and 80’s pop music blaring and everyone was having a good time. The building itself is a rabbit warren of smaller rooms. A taproom in the front, several small dining rooms, and an American style bar menu featuring burgers, dogs and sandwiches. Because it was so busy, finding a place to park ourselves was a challenge, but we found a couple of seats at a shared high-top table in the front room near the door and tucked in for a good time. Of course John mentioned to the door man, Nelis, (pronounced NAY-liss) that he is a home brewer. Nelis then proceeded to give us a private guided tour of the brew house, complete with meeting the local homebrewing club! What a Happy Accident!

Clockwise from top left – beer aging in Ardbeg casks, the only burger I ate on the entire 2 week trip – cooked perfectly rare, Hubby John (in the red shirt) with the local Amsterdam Home Brewers Club, Nelis and I in the brewhouse, drinking beer in the taproom, Hubby John’s NotaBrau sticker in the brewhouse with other brewers’ stickers.

Resources to Get You Started

Intrigued? Wanna try it out for yourself? There are several great references out there. Of course you can go to the Chamber of Commerce or tourism site for any city you are visiting. Beware, they don’t always have great info on craft beer bars or breweries, unless the area is known for their craft beer scene, like Bend. Online be sure to check out Beer Advocate. Go to the “places” tab and select “directory”. They list breweries, bars, brew pubs with food, home brew supply stores, and stores with great beer selections. While you are there, subscribe to the magazine! Check out Lonely Planet and their collection of Global Beer Guides, available in print and digital formats. I prefer Lonely Planet travel guides over others because there are always quirky little things they find that aren’t in other guidebooks. You can select individual chapters for just the area you are traveling to, but WHY? Get the whole damn book so you are prepared for your next adventure ($20 in hardback)!

Buy Lonely Planet’s Global Beer Tour book  here in digital or print formats (photo from Lonely Planet website)

Another great book is this one by National Geographic. As with all Nat Geo products, the photography and content are first rate. It is a larger format book, a fantastic “coffee table book” for the beer lover on your Holiday gift list. ($40 in hardback.)

Buy Nat Geo’s Atlas of Beer here direct from National Geographic           (photo from Nat Geo website)

Finally, talk to the bartender at your local craft beer bar, beer goddesses at beer festivals or your local home brewers’ club. Those folks know where it’s at when it comes to craft beer and can point you in the direction of fab bars and breweries. Definitely do this AT your destination. Find one great taproom and the kind folks there will lead you to others. And ALWAYS – drink responsibly and don’t drink and drive!

Amsterdam Street Food – River Cruise Part 4

Posted on by LeAnne Notabartolo

The final stop on our cruise was Amsterdam and though we stayed a couple of days and I could have used a few more even if it rained all but 5 hours of our stay. Amsterdam has a wild food and beverage scene. From the streets, to the cafés, and “coffee shops”, there is so much going on. We learned quickly that “coffee shop” is a euphemism for hash or weed shop. If you actually want coffee you need to go to a café where you can also get beer, wine and some great snacks. What we found fascinating were the number of ethnic restaurants in the tourist corridor and the complete lack of Dutch restaurants. We saw everything from Turkish and Italian to Mexican and Halal eateries, but not one single Dutch restaurant other than the cafés.

Our hotel, the Marriott Renaissance, was centrally located in the downtown, tourist corridor. While it was convenient to everything we wanted to do, we wished it was a better hotel. For the record, we didn’t choose it. The lobby and public areas are contemporary and lovely, but the room was a major disappointment after the opulence and luxury of the River Princess. The carpet was stained in several places, one of the chairs had a tear, the bed was uncomfortable and the breakfast was atrocious. Thankfully we weren’t in an isolated area and could explore Amsterdam easily away from the hotel. The only bright side to the hotel was the café that had some great local beers and a friendly staff.

The Albert Cuyp Market in Amsterdam

After a morning including the happy accident of a Banksy exhibit at the MOCO Museum we decided to continue acting like tourists. In Amsterdam, near one of the seemingly thousands of canals, there is a daily open air market, the Albert Cuyp Market. Here you can find everything your heart desires from souvenirs and clothing to produce and ready to eat snacks. Even in the rain, it was a treat to walk through and check out all the stalls, vendors and food. The produce is glorious, the souvenirs as schlocky as you would expect and the clothes exactly what you would find at a swap meet. What we found really interesting were the cheese, fish and meat vendors selling fresh product to take home. And it wasn’t just tourists shopping at the market; there were plenty of Amsterdam locals who had favorite merchants there. Needless to say, I had a BALL! Of course Gouda (pronounced HOW-duh) was purchased and brought home. The merchant happily pointed out the “factory made” vs. handmade cheeses. Three guesses as to which ones ended up in my shopping bag.

The red is aged, the green has herbs and the yellow is “young”. All together about a kilo and €15

Just Say NO! to Herring

And then of course there was the street food. I had to eat them all! I even tried the herring! It is known that if you are in Amsterdam, you should have some herring. John wouldn’t touch it, and after one bite, I didn’t blame him. I took a second bite, hoping for the best, but it’s just not for me. I like pickled herring and creamed pickled herring and this wasn’t like either of those. And it wasn’t the taste, it was the texture. I found it slimy and a little tasteless if I am being honest. Thank goodness for the dill pickle and the onions on the roll with it, or it would have had little to no taste at all. There is no photo because, well, it was gross and who wants to see that, or my face upon NOT enjoying?

Moving on to Tastier Things

I am not a fan of waffles in general, unless it is a waffle cone with ice cream inside, therefore I wasn’t entirely sure about stroopwafels. Let it be known, I am convert! They are thin (like a waffle cone), crispy, waffle sandWISH cookies with caramel smeared between the layers. The trick to eating them is to keep them in the paper wrapper because the caramel is like glue and will stick to every single thing it touches. Totally worth the trouble, believe me!

Even in the rain, this was a delish treat! Golden brown and crispy with a gooey center. What could be wrong with that?

On board the ship the final night, one of the dessert offerings was poffertjes. We tried them, and frankly were a bit disappointed since we had heard and read a bit about them. So when we saw them being made in the market, we elected to give them another try. I am so glad we did! If you have ever been to an Italian style street fair, like San Gennaro, I hope you have had the good sense to eat “fried dough”. These little puffs of pan fried,  yeasted batter taste similar, but they are tiny, coated in butter and powdered sugar (traditionally) and you don’t feel guilty for eating an order of 10! Check out the video of the vendor flipping them. On the ship they were cooked like waffles between two plates and were more like cake than dough. You can see the difference here in the video and picture. They puff up on the pan and then collapse onto themselves making layers of doughy goodness.

This was an order of 15 and John and I shared them because we were eating ALL the things!

No, I Am Not Making That Up

Then we had the bitterballen. No, I am not making that up and get your mind out of the gutter. Yes, I know we are talking about Amsterdam, but this is about food dammit! These are our favorite of all the snacks we tried. So much so, that I am planning to make them at home. You know how when you chill gravy it turns into gravy jello? Ok, make the gravy even thicker, throw some finely chopped meat in (usually beef or veal). Then chill it, form it into balls, bread it and deep fry it. Yes, my friends. Deep fried gravy balls! We liked them so much that we had three different versions in 2 days and the “original” was our least favorite. They are always served with mustard, and it oddly works! The gravy never gets back to the liquid consistency, so they aren’t a mess to eat. They are just damn good.

L-R – The “original” at VOC Cafe, Chef Sammy D’s take with oxtail at Wyer’s at the DeWitt Kimpton  (more on that soon – these were the best FYI), and beer battered, with beer mustard at De Prael brewery.

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Bartenders, Butlers and Bubbles – All the Drinking – River Cruise Part 3

Posted on by LeAnne Notabartolo

Drinking is a mainstay on all cruise ships. After all, when you are on vacation you feel freer to enjoy a cocktail at any hour. That has been true on our river cruise as well as ocean cruises we have been on. The difference is the quality, not the quantity of drinking. The bar was stocked with brand names you recognize and civilized beer, not only on tap, but in bottles (no Bud, Miller or Coors). And I have to admit, I was drinking more wine and champagne on this trip than I have all the rest of this year. I normally avoid both because of migraines and hangovers in the past, but I had no issues at all in Europe. Was it the wine, or that I was relaxed? I am crediting the wine – perfection!

Each evening we had regional wine pairings created by Sorin our head bartender who is working toward his Sommelier certificate (a little more challenging with his mobile work venue) and has 13 years of experience working in the beverage industry. I am not an expert on wine, by any stretch of the imagination, but I know what I like and can tell you that the wines were delicious. Each region we sailed through had us drinking a different type of wine. In Budapest we had Hungarian wines, Austrian wines in Austria and of course, crisp and clean Riesling and Pinot Blanc were what we were drinking through the German wine regions.

Drinking My Vodka and Soda in a Daiquiri Glass

Without exception, the entire bar staff on the ship was exceptional, starting with Sorin, Stoyan, and Bruno. What makes a great drinking experience for me is that the bartenders knew what I wanted after just a few visits to the bar. We pesky Americans LOVE our ice and I personally love a tall or large glass. These guys had it figured out in just a few days and started serving me my drinks in daiquiri glasses because they held the most ice and liquid by volume. I may have looked a little ridiculous drinking my vodka and soda in a daiquiri glass, but, “Frankly I don’t give a damn.” And Agnes (the only woman on the food & beverage service team) in the dining room had my number too. I asked for a “large glass of caffeine” in the form of a Diet Coke at lunch and she made that happen in a red wine glass, the largest they had in the dining room.

City-side Drinking Experiences

And of course there were the city-side drinking experiences. We hit 5 breweries in 5 hours in Bamberg, found a brewery and a fine American style cocktail and cigar lounge in Vienna, and a craft beer bar in Frankfurt where we were having such a good time drinking with the locals that we skipped dinner on the ship! There were so many opportunities to enjoy local adult beverages and we took advantage of them all!

Bamberg – Five Breweries in five hours! Wish we had more time in this city! Currywurst, pretzels and beer.

Vienna – Left – Beer at a little bar, Kruger American Bar cocktail lounge, 1516 Brewery with the best coaster of the entire trip. Right – all the goodies from Demel Cafe – Amaretto coffee, Sachertorte and the House Specialty torte.

Frankfurt – L – R Mispelchen, Calvados brandy and a special breed of apricot. You do it as a shot – chew the apricot and then drink the brandy, tagliatelle with in season chanterelles, local craft beer, all at Naiv bar; the hilarious trashcans in the touristy city center.

Remember how I mentioned that John upgraded our room to a suite? Well, yeah. The suite came with an honest to goodness butler who has been trained by the head butler to the royal family in England. It is part of the corporate structure of Uniworld and Red Carnation Hotels (sister companies) that the butlers are all trained in classic English tradition. Our butler, as mentioned before is named Panche and I’d love to take him home just for the little details (he folds laundry like it was meant to be folded). John has a sweet tooth and always has some sort of chewy candy on or in his nightstand at home. John had been grabbing a small glass and filling it with gummi bears from the lounge snack bar stash and leaving it on the nightstand. Panche saw this and replaced the offending glass with a proper canister for his chewy treats! We, of course, had a great chuckle over that one! I mentioned how much I have always wanted to learn how to “saber” a champagne bottle and he provided me with an instruction sheet and a lesson using a bottle of bubbles given to us by British Airways as a celebratory gift for our 30th Anniversary. It’s the details kids…it’s the details.

After the sabering lesson, Chef Daniel treated us to caviar complete with accompaniments and fruit.

Service Makes the Difference – River Cruise – Part 2

Posted on by LeAnne Notabartolo

Detail Oriented Service

As I sit waiting to go through one of the many locks (in total more than 60) on this voyage, I am stumped on where to begin and how to share with you how much fun I am having with the food and how much I appreciate the detail oriented service from the ship’s staff. I do miss cooking though, and can’t wait to get back to my kitchen to play with the new spices and pastes I picked up. At home I would just rattle some pans, but I think Chef Daniel might take umbrage with me just waltzing into his kitchen. For the record, I have asked for a tour of the kitchen and have yet to be invited to check it out. According to Marin, the hotel manager, the entire kitchen is electric. As one would expect, no open flames are on board. And there are of course safety concerns with allowing guests into “behind the scenes” areas of the ship.

Continued Excellence from the Kitchen

The food on board this trip continues to be quite excellent. If you have ever been on an ocean cruise, you know how fucking miserable THAT food is, and that is SO not the case here. I expected after the Welcome Dinner (see Part 1) that the food would be simpler, or somehow “less” and that is not the case AT ALL (witness John’s lamb shank, below, from the other night). Continued excellence from the kitchen and the bar staff pleases me to no end. The freshly baked-on-board breads and the variety of European cheeses are truly wonderful. And I feel quite virtuous that I am skipping dessert most evenings or selecting the cheese plate. The other fun thing about the food on board is that regional specialties are served as you sail. For instance in Hungary we had Paprikash, in Austria there was Schnitzel and so on. And to make it even more special, they gifted me with a set of recipe cards of some of the dishes that we have enjoyed on this cruise.

Lamb Shank with roasted root veg

Roast Duck with red cabbage and potato dumpling

Recipe cards featuring some of the recipes from this cruise and a few other Uniworld itineraries as well.

Special Surprise for our 30th Anniversary

Our cabin attendant, Veronika, is a gem. Fast and efficient, she always makes sure the room is perfect whenever we return from any adventure. Upon returning from dinner one night, there was a bottle of bubbly, rose petals, a bow and electric candles set out as a special gift for our 30th Anniversary. I am not sure if a staff member overheard us talking, or our travel agent, Phillip Archer, clued them in, but it was an unexpected treat!

We came back from dinner to THIS – chocolates, bubbly German “champagne” and a beautiful setting. And yes, those are electric candles.

The service from the wait staff in the dining room and bar are spot on! Because the ship is intimate, they are able to provide personalized service and attention. After a few meals, they know I don’t drink coffee, skip dessert most evenings, and always want water. The bartenders know what I want to drink and have it ready in an instant.

Uniworld must have a lock on the best tour guides in the river valley. Without exception, each of the guides has been knowledgeable, entertaining and fun to be with. At the Melk Abbey, we were guided by docents of the abbey, but in every other city thus far, we have had a local who gives great tips on what to see, do and eat outside of the tour. So far my faves have been Elizabeth at the hops farm and Stephanie in Bamberg.

Here I am, bedecked with a freshly cut wreath of hops at the Hallertau Hops Farm. Just call me the Hops Queen!

This is the original “town hall” or Court in Bamberg. When royalty came to visit they stayed nearby and all of the merchants and “support staff” worked from here to accommodate the royals. Grain, beer and other consumables were stored here as well. This building was used in The Three Musketeers version with Orlando Bloom and Mila Jovovich.

And let us not forget our Cruise MANAGER (not cruise director) Heidicha (Pronounced Hi-DEE cha)! She has the patience of Job and has demonstrated that time and again this cruise, not only with me (and I can’t remember SHIT!) but also with a few problem children who don’t listen to anything anyone says. I plan things and get paid to it, but I’d be slapping someone if I had to do her job. She’s incredible

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Stay tuned for more soon! John upgraded our cabin to a suite for the remainder of the voyage and all I can say is WOW! We now have an honest to goodness butler . No. I am not kidding. His name is Panche (pahn SHAY). Follow along on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. For Facebook, enable ALL notifications so you never miss a post.

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